Flip Grater - The Cookbook Tour Europe

I'm not a 'foodie'. I own one cookbook with the rather patronizing title Anyone Can Cook, so my interest in this book lay firmly in its musical chapters. But the thing is, within these travel stories, tales of music and food are inseparable and I couldn't help but be caught up in Flip Grater's absolute love affair with the bounty of dishes that Europe had to offer her. Quite how a vegan is supposed to satisfy herself at any hour of the day or night in an unfamiliar European city (it's a given that alot of fries were consumed) is a fascinating reoccurring conundrum in Flip Grater's wonderful The Cookbook Tour Europe - Adventures in Food and Music (published by Bateman).
This follow up to her first publication (which focused on stories and recipes from her New Zealand tours) sees Flip Grater travel to London, France, Amsterdam, Italy, Berlin, Copenhagen, Sweden and back to London again. Her voice is always honest, sometimes heartbreakingly so, descriptive and inventive - she alludes to Paris as her "lesbian lover" - and her genuine passion for the food and places that surround her is beautifully captured. More often than not, Flip Grater and friends are assaulted with some superbly prepared cuisine from accommodating venue owners, 'off the beaten track' cafes and bistros and humble home cooking local food lovers. But sometimes that old 'hangry' feeling takes a hold and it's a mad dash to find a comforting curry or some simple Japanese to relieve the cravings and keep any potential meltdowns at bay.
The book is broken into chapters that relate to each country she visits, with recipes from friends and acquaintances and a selection of photographs scattered throughout. It's at times, both a courageous and lonely journey. Flip Grater finds herself troubled by the usual navigation complications, language impediments, some unresponsive staff and venue managers and unwelcome advances. These situations are often compounded by an alcohol soaked stomach desperately seeking a forgiving vegan option to fill the void. That's not to say that her travels were unorganized or hap-hazard. Flip Grater meets up with her vegetarian friend and tour manager, Liz Smith, in Amsterdam (after a beautifully evoked Parisian chapter) and the two set out to complete a series of dates that take them up and down Europe, eventually to arrive in London on the eve of Christmas 2010.
In between, both are held sway by a diverse range of fellow cuisine lovers. An American in Paris treats Flip Grater to a private vegetarian cooking lesson, where they create what I assume were some delicious Dairyless Quinoa Cakes. In Italy's north-west, both women are taken under the wing of a local food tour guide and treated to the origins of Nutella and a five course meal from an endearing truffle hunter. While in the small town of Alba, they are welcomed to dine with an ex-pat cellar-master.
Throughout her travels, Flip Grater finds moments and inspiration to write some of the songs that made up her third album While I'm Awake I'm At War (a sample CD accompanies the book), and I was at times allowed to glimpse the artist in a vulnerable state as these songs take hold. As befits the traveling musician, there are many a night out 'on the turps' and I was swept along with the excitement of new places, people and conversations. She even has a cathartic moment in Sweden when visiting the family of an old flame (haunt?). Like I said earlier, honest stuff and this book is all the richer for it. As a touring musician myself, I was most interested in the performances and the details surrounding them, but the exuberance and delight of her food writing (and tasting) is infectious stuff, endearing and addictive. For the reader, this is certainly an adventure worth taking.
- Richard Setford